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Showing posts with label Automotive. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Automotive. Show all posts

Drum Brakes

Drum brakes, disc brakes, wheel cylinders, pistons, calipers, brake shoes??... If all these terms sound alien to you fear not. Modern braking systems found in today's vehicles are not as complicated as you may think, and servicing them is easily within the grasp of the home mechanic.



A Look At History
The predecessor to the modern drum brake was invented in the beginning of the 20th century and was used in virtually all vehicles until recent times. In the 1950s self adjusting drum brakes were invented, before then brakes had to be manually adjusted to compensate for brake wear. By the late 1960s and into the 1970s the front drum brakes on cars started to be replaced with disc brakes. Since then there has been a growing number of cars and trucks that have completely abandoned drum brakes in favor of disc brakes.

How Do Drum Brakes Work?

To understand how drum brakes operate, we first need to take a look at how they are constructed. As their name suggests, a drum brake consists of a hollow drum attached to the axle and wheel. The drum spins with the wheel. Inside the hollowed out drum are basically four parts: the brake shoes, wheel cylinder, self adjuster, and the parking brake pawl.

When you press the brake pedal, hydraulic brake fluid forces the wheel cylinder (colored green in the graphic) to extend two pistons out. These pistons are attached to the brake shoes (orange in the picture). The brake shoes are then squeezed against the inside of the drum (yellow in the picture). The friction caused by the shoes rubbing the drum slows the wheel down.
As the brakes are used, the shoe pads and the drum wear thinner. The self adjuster automatically compensates for this change in thickness. The parking brake pawl is basically a mechanical substitute for the wheel cylinder. When you activate your parking brake (sometimes called a hand brake or emergency brake), the pawl uses springs and mechanical devices to squeeze the brake shoes against the drum.

I Thought Drum Brakes Were Outdated, Why Do Some Cars Still Use Them?
Virtually all vehicles sold in the U.S. today use disc front brakes, however, some still use drum brakes on the rear wheels. Why is this? Well, for starters, the front wheels do about 70-80% of the braking, so the rear brakes do not get the same heat and friction abuse as the front brakes. Properly maintained drum brakes are more than adequate for rear wheel braking.
Another reason is cost, drum brakes are cheaper to make and install on vehicles, so it saves the car manufacturer some money.
A third reason is the simplicity of integrating the parking brake. There are no easy ways to make a disc brake operate like a parking brake, in fact, several rear disc brakes have built in drum brakes used solely for the parking brake.
Remember that rear disc brakes are not equal to front disc brakes. Virtually all rear brake rotors are not vented meaning they are usually less than half the thickness of front rotors. The brake calipers and pads on rear disc brakes (calipers are to disc brakes like wheel cylinders are to drum brakes) are smaller.
And finally, drum brakes may be making a slight come back. Some hybrid vehicles, like the Toyota Prius, use drum brakes on both the front and rear wheels.

Servicing Drum Brakes
Chances are, if you are reading about drum brakes, you are preparing to service the brakes on your vehicle. Here is How-To Matthew's Drum Brake Maintenance Article with step-by-step instructions and photos.



Relevant Sites
Here are some external links to sites with information relevant to this article.

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Types of Coolant and Antifreeze

Today's coolant market is confusing. In days past all coolant was the green ethylene glycol variety, but not anymore. Now it seems that every car manufacturer has at least one color of coolant.



What Type of Antifreeze Should I Use?
All Makes and Models
Extended Life 150,000 Miles
Green, Red, Yellow, Orange, Pink, Blue

There are a lot of coolant types to choose from when you go to a well stocked auto parts store, so which one works best in your car? The simple answer is, well, simple: use what came in your car. However, sometimes it may be difficult to decipher what the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) used, especially if you purchased your car used.

In the spirit of trying to keep this often times confusing subject simple, we will review the three basic types of automotive coolant: Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT), and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT).

IAT coolants are the "traditional green" variety used in virtually all American vehicles from the late 1920s to the mid to late 1990s. Like all antifreeze, it is naturally clear; its color comes from dye. Unlike the other types of antifreeze, it uses silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors to protect the metal parts of the engine and cooling system. However, these inhibitors wear out quickly, so IAT type coolants need to be flushed every two years or 30,000 miles.

OAT coolants typically do not use silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors. Different manufacturers use different chemical additives to battle rust and corrosion, and they all dye their coolants different colors. GM's ubiquitous DEX-COOL coolant is an OAT antifreeze dyed orange. Toyota, Volkswagen, and Audi all use their own formulas that happen to be dyed pink. Honda uses a dark green dye. OAT coolants have longer service lives than IAT coolants, needing to be flushed every 5 years or 150,000 miles.

HOAT coolants use different additives than OAT, but also use some silicate to protect aluminum surfaces. Modern Ford, Chrysler, and most European vehicles use their own HOAT coolant formulas. Ford's is dyed yellow and Chrysler's is orange (not to be confused with DEX-COOL). Both use the marketing name of GO-5. HOAT coolant has the same service interval as OAT (5 years or 150,000 miles).

Review the chart below for a quick guide to coolant types.
Summary
  • IAT - Used in early to mid-late 90's Domestic vehicles
  • OAT - Used in late 90's GM and most Asian vehicles
  • HOAT - Used in 2000's Fords, Chryslers, and most European vehicles

Coolant Cocktails?
Although you can mix coolant types without harm, it is highly recommended against. If you mix an OAT or HOAT with an IAT, you will lose the extended service life of the OAT or HOAT coolant. Some people say that if you mix these types of coolant it can result in the coolant gelling, but if you keep your cooling system well maintained, this should not be a problem. In general, do not make coolant cocktails!

And finally, what about the "Universal, All Makes, All Models" coolant you see stuffing store shelves? Basically, those are OAT DEX-COOL clones. I would personally steer well clear of them unless your vehicle is designed for OAT coolant.



Relevant Sites
Here are some external links to sites with information relevant to this article.

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Under the Hood: 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0L

Our featured Under the Hood candidate is a 1996 Ford Ranger. The Ranger uses a 6 cylinder engine and is a rear wheel drive truck, so the general layout of the engine components will be similar to most other 6 cylinder, RWD vehicles.



  1. Engine Oil Cap
  2. Engine Oil Dipstick
  3. Transmission Dipstick
  4. Radiator
  5. Radiator Cap
  6. Upper Radiator Hose
  7. Engine Coolant Reservoir
  8. Windshield Washer Reservoir
  9. Fuse/Relay Box
  10. Battery
  11. Air Filter Housing
  12. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
  13. Brake Fluid Reservoir
  14. Brake Booster
  15. Power Steering Reservoir
  16. Spark Plug Coil
  17. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
  18. Alternator
  19. AC Compressor
  20. Serpentine Belt
Identification Aid
The above photographs with diagrams should help you locate the main parts and systems under the hood of your vehicle. If you have any questions about the outlined parts that are not answered in the relevant text or links, or need help identifying addition components, feel free to contact me.
Are there any parts you can identify that I left out? Let me know by leaving a comment!


Relevant Sites
Here is an external link to a site with information relevant to this article.

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Under the Hood: 2007 Ford Five Hundred 3.0L

Our featured Under the Hood candidate is a 2007 Ford Five Hundred. The Five Hundred uses a 6 cylinder engine and is a front wheel drive car, so the general layout of the engine components will be similar to most other 6 cylinder, FWD vehicles.



Pictured above is the engine bay of a 2007 Ford Five Hundred with the 3.0L V6 engine.
  1. Engine Oil Cap
  2. Engine Oil Dipstick
  3. Engine Coolant Reservoir
  4. Engine Coolant/Radiator Cap
  5. Windshield Washer Reservoir
  6. Fuse/Relay Box
  7. Battery
  8. Air Filter Housing
  9. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
  10. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
  11. Brake Fluid Reservoir
  12. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
  13. Coil-on-Spark Plugs (back three are underneath #14)
  14. Intake Manifold
  15. Upper Radiator Hose
Identification Aid
The above photographs with diagrams should help you locate the main parts and systems under the hood of your vehicle. If you have any questions about the outlined parts that are not answered in the relevant text or links, or need help identifying addition components, feel free to contact me.
Are there any parts you can identify that I left out? Let me know by leaving a comment!


Relevant Sites
Here is an external link to a site with information relevant to this article.

Read more...

Under the Hood: 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0L

Our featured Under the Hood candidate is a 2001 Ford Taurus. The Taurus uses a 6 cylinder engine and is a front wheel drive car, so the general layout of the engine components will be similar to most other 6 cylinder, FWD vehicles.



  1. Engine Oil Cap
  2. Engine Oil Dipstick
  3. Upper Radiator Hose
  4. Engine Coolant Reservoir and Cooling System Cap
  5. Windshield Washer Reservoir
  6. Fuse/Relay Box
  7. Battery
  8. Air Filter Housing
  9. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location
  10. Brake Fluid Reservoir
  11. Power Steering Reservoir
  12. Spark Plugs (Front 3, Back 3 are under the Intake Manifold)
  13. Spark Plug Coil Pack
  14. Alternator
  15. Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid

Identification Aid
The above photographs with diagrams should help you locate the main parts and systems under the hood of your vehicle. If you have any questions about the outlined parts that are not answered in the relevant text or links, or need help identifying addition components, feel free to contact me.
Are there any parts you can identify that I left out? Let me know by leaving a comment!


Relevant Sites
Here is an external link to a site with information relevant to this article.

Read more...

Under the Hood: 1999 Nissan Altima 2.4L

Our featured Under the Hood candidate is a 1999 Nissan Altima. The Altima uses a 4 cylinder engine and is a front wheel drive car, so the general layout of the engine components will be similar to most other 4 cylinder, FWD vehicles.


  1. Engine Oil Cap
  2. Engine Oil Dipstick (hidden from view in photograph)
  3. Radiator
  4. Radiator Cap
  5. Upper Radiator Hose
  6. Engine Coolant Reservoir
  7. Windshield Washer Reservoir
  8. Fuse/Relay Boxes
  9. Battery
  10. Air Filter Housing
  11. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) location
  12. Brake Fluid Reservoir
  13. Power Steering Reservoir
  14. Spark Plugs
  15. Distributor Cap

  1. Engine Oil Cap
  2. Engine Oil Dipstick
  3. Radiator
  4. Upper Radiator Hose
  5. Engine Coolant Reservoir
  6. Windshield Washer Reservoir
  7. Fuse/Relay Box
  8. Power Steering Fluid
  9. Spark Plugs
  10. Alternator
  11. Accessory Drive Belt

  1. Spark Plugs
  2. Distributor Cap
  3. Lower Radiator Hose (barely visible in photo)
  4. Battery
  5. Air Filter Housing
  6. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor location
  7. Brake Fluid Reservoir
  8. Brake Booster
  9. Fuel Filter
  10. Fuse/Relay Box

Identification Aid
The above photographs with diagrams should help you locate the main parts and systems under the hood of your vehicle. If you have any questions about the outlined parts that are not answered in the relevant text or links, or need help identifying addition components, feel free to contact me.
Are there any parts you can identify that I left out? Let me know by leaving a comment!


Relevant Sites
Here is an external link to a site with information relevant to this article.

Read more...

Auto Inspection/Identification

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Auto Repair

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Auto Maintenance

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Automotive

The DIY auto mechanic (sometimes called a shade tree or backyard mechanic), has the opportunity to gain a lot through working on his or her own vehicles. The three greatest advantages of being your own mechanic are:
1. You can save hundreds, if not thousands of dollars over your vehicle's life span by maintaining or repairing it yourself.
2. You will come to intimately know your vehicle, inside and out, and will learn how to get the most out of your vehicle.
3. You will gain valuable mechanic skills and become more self sufficient in maintaining what is quite possibly one of the largest monetary investments you have.
I currently have three main Automotive How-To sub categories: Maintenance, Repair and Inspection/Identification. Maintenance articles cover general automotive maintenance items. Articles filed under Repair will cover items that are generally not maintenance items or, in some cases, are vehicle customizations. Inspection/Identification articles are for getting more familiar with what the various systems and parts are in a car.

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Relevant Sites
There is a lot of information about all aspects of cars on the internet. Here are some external links in addition to those at the bottom of this web site that may help you in any car-related internet quest you may be on:

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