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Showing posts with label Budget. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budget. Show all posts

Rain Barrels

Tired of high water bills in the summer from watering your lawn and garden? Here is a simple way to harness rain run-off and put this water to work for you!



Collecting Rain Water
People have been collecting and storing rain water for a very long time, so why is it we, as a society, have become complacent with our rain collecting activities? Perhaps the wide spread use of exterior garden hoses, sprinklers, and cheap, treated, municipal water have spoiled us. If you are getting tired of paying precious money on watering the garden, like I am, and want to be a better steward of our natural resources, then read on to find out one solution to the problem.

What is a Rain Barrel?
A rain barrel is quite simply a barrel designed to catch and store rain water. There is no definite form that a barrel needs to take to be a "rain barrel," in fact, it does not even have to be a barrel! The simplest form of a rain barrel would be a bucket placed under a gutter downspout, but some rain barrels can be much more complicated and expensive.
Most rain barrels will have at least one of the following characteristics:
  • Large enough capacity to hold several gallons of water
  • A spigot, faucet, valve, or other similar way of emptying water from the barrel
  • A screen or mesh and a lid to keep debris and mosquitoes out of the barrel
  • An overflow tube to divert water away from the house's foundation
There are pre-made rain barrels and rain barrel kits available commercially, but it is not difficult to make your own, so in the spirit of How-To Matthew, I will show you how I made my first (of hopefully several) rain barrels.

Constructing the Rain Catcher
One of the fun aspects of designing and making your rain barrel is that you have a tremendous amount of freedom. Design your rain barrel however it best suits your needs and wants. I personally decided to try to make this rain barrel with only using scraps and spare parts I had sitting around the garage.

Getting the Barrel
Potentially the hardest part of this whole job is finding a good barrel. Large 55 gallon plastic food barrels are possibly the most sought after container by rain barrel makers since they will not rust like steel drums, did not contain any dangerous chemicals, and can sometimes be had for really low prices. I found my 55 gallon plastic barrel on craigslist for $25. You could also try businesses or industries that use these plastic barrels to see if they will sell their empty ones to you (or even better, give them away for free). Some best bets are water treatments plants, bottling companies (soft drinks), food processing plants, and car washes.

Here are the steps I took to create my rain barrel. Feel free to copy these steps, improvise as you see fit, or come up with your own unique set of steps.

Step 1. Rinse the Barrel Out and let it dry. You do not actually have to let it completely dry, but since I will be inside of the barrel shortly, I decided to let it dry. (Fig. A)
Step 2. Drill a Hole Towards the Bottom of the Barrel. I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the faucet I was going to install. I positioned the hole a few inches up the side of the barrel. Too low would have caused a problem with the rounded edge of the barrel and too high would obviously decrease the usable amount of water I could get from this gravity-fed system. (Fig. B)
Step 3. Cut the Top of the Barrel Off. I only had to do this since the top was fused to the body of the barrel. I ended up cutting the top off about an inch under the lip, then I cut another couple of inches off the main body to allow the lid to fit down into the barrel. The lip on the lid is wider than the widest part of the main body, so the lid will not fall into the barrel. (Fig. C)
Step 4. Cut a Large Hole in the Lid for the screen. I accomplished this by first drilling several 3/4" holes and then using a reciprocating saw to finish the hole. (Fig. D)
Note: When cutting these plastic barrels with a reciprocating saw, use a metal cutting blade, it will work much better than a wood blade.

Step 5. Prepare the Faucet. You can see how I laid mine out before hand in Figure E. #1 is a spigot I salvaged from some old iron pipe stored in my garage. #2 is a female adapter that came with the spigot. #3 is the male piece of pipe I cut from the bottom of a kitchen faucet that was taken out during a renovation. #4 is a plastic washer/nut from the same kitchen faucet. As you can see in the photo, I have prepped the threaded male portions of the pipes by wrapping them in teflon tape. (Fig. E)
Step 6. Assemble the Outer Portion of the Faucet and then install the faucet into the barrel. I assembled parts #1-3 (from the step above) and then installed that into the hole I drilled in the side of the barrel. Since the hole was ever so slightly smaller than the threaded pipe, I had to screw the faucet into the barrel. This will effectively tap the plastic and will add to its water tightness. (Fig. F)
Step 7. Complete the Faucet Install by tightening the inside nut (part #4 from step 5). Before I installed this plastic nut, I applied some caulk to it, but I'm not sure the caulk did anything since it is old and never seemed to set properly. Oh well, the fixture is still water tight! (Fig. G)
Step 8. Prepare the Base where the rain barrel will sit. I made a raised platform out of cinder blocks and scrap pieces of lumber. You want it high enough off the ground to get a watering bucket under the spigot since this whole system relies on nothing more than gravity to work. (Fig. H & I)
Step 9. Route the Gutter Downspouts to Empty into the Barrel. This step is really easy if the rain barrel is directly under the downspout, however, in my case, the HVAC unit for the house is in the way. I chose the location because this is where two downspouts meet and the old downspout went straight into the ground. I started by cutting the lower portion of the downspout off (Fig. K) and then had to buy an elbow piece of gutter to help direct the water. After the elbow was installed I reinstalled a straight section from the portion I cut off previously. (Fig. K)
I then took a break from gutters to finish the barrel.
Step 10. Install the Barrel, Lid and Screen. I chose to attach the screen by laying it over top the hole in the lid and caulking it in place. I also attached a couple scrap pieces of wood to help fasten the screen. In my case though, I was using that old caulk that never seemed to fully harden and adhere, so I may have to go back and redo that portion, but for now it works.
Step 11. Install the Downspout Retaining Clip. I used some left over flexible metal strapping to create a clip to hold the end of the downspout that would empty into the barrel. (Fig. L)
Step 12. Connect the Gutter Downspout to the Barrel using a 10' length of black, flexible tubing (cost under $5 at the hardware store). One end of the tube goes through the clip I made in the previous step and the other end is slipped over the last straight portion of the gutter downspout. (Fig. M)
And it's done! Here is a view of the completed project.Sure, it is not pretty, but does it work?
It works very well in fact! A couple of days after I had installed the barrel we got a brief rain shower. It only took about twenty minutes of a steady rain to fill the barrel to where it was over flowing. We now have water that is perfect for watering plants since there are no harsh chemicals in the water. This water is also good for washing cars; I washed my truck and used about 15 gallons of this water to give it a good rinse. That is 15 gallons of water that we do not have to pay for and more importantly, it is 15 gallons that do not have to be treated, transported, and released far from its original source.

To aid the aesthetics of the rain barrel, I am thinking of planting some ivy or vines that will grow around the barrel. You could also construct a privacy fence to screen the barrel from site, or, if you are lucky enough to find a large wooden barrel, no decorations may be needed.

In the finished photo, you can see that I have attached a short length of hose to the spigot. You could also hook up a soaker hose to your rain barrel to give a garden a constant and steady source of water. Like I mentioned earlier, you are king (or queen) when it comes time to designing your rain water collection system!

Economical
My total cost break down:

Plastic 55 gallon barrel: $25 (found on www.craigslist.org)
Gutter Elbow: ~$2 (Lowes)
10' Flexible Black Irrigation Pipe: ~$5 (Lowes)
Everything else: Free

Total: $32



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Extension Cord Reel

Here is a quick tip if you hate dealing with a tangled extension cord any time you try to do yard work with an electric tool: make yourself a cord reel.




We had an old garden hose reel which was being unused so I fed the female end of a 100' long extension cord through the reel's axle and wound the rest of the cord up. When the time comes to use our electric weed eater, it is simply a matter of unwinding the amount of cord we need. And the best part? When the job is finished all you have to do is reel the extension cord back in. That's it! No more extension cord tangle.


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Simple Wood Ladder

Want a way to access the attic or space above the garage ceiling joists? Don't have the room or budget to add a staircase? Want something a little more sturdy than using a step stool while trying to access the storage space up there? Here is a way you can make a quick and easy ladder out of simple 2x4s that will be sturdy enough to inspire confidence while accessing the space above your garage.


Note: these instructions are for using a circular saw to make the cuts, but any saw could be used.

Tools and Materials
You will only need a few tools to build your quick and easy wood ladder. First, you will need a saw. I recommend a circular saw but even a simple hand saw would even suffice. Next, you will need either a hammer and nails or a screw driver (power drill/driver recommended) and screws. You will want two clamps to aid in cutting the ladder rails, a pencil, and a tape measure. Finally, you will need at least three 2"x4"x8' boards (if your ladder is going to be taller than 7', get longer boards).

Planning
Before you make a single cut, you need to do a little planning. Where will the ladder be placed? How tall should the ladder be?
When figuring these things out, remember that the ladder will probably be at a slight angle when installed. If your garage does not have a ceiling and only exposed joists, consider making the ladder taller than the joists (not like in the photo above).
Also consider if you would like to add any features to your ladder. For example, if you have plenty of space above your head but do not want the ladder to constantly block the wall, consider putting the top of the ladder on hinges so that the ladder can be stored up against the ceiling and then pivoted down when you need to use it.

Making the Ladder
Select the two boards that will be the vertical rails of the ladder and clamp them together so that they are even.
Using a scrap 2x4 block, a pencil, and your tape measure, place the 2x4 block perpendicular to the clamped boards 16" from one end and mark both sides of the block. Move the block 16" farther down the clamped boards and make your two marks again. repeat the entire length.
It should look something like this where the red lines represent the pencil marks.
See those guides you made with the pencil and 2x4? Those will be grooves to hold the ladder rungs. Now it is time to make cut some wood!
Set your circular saw's blade height to the same thickness of a 2x4 (about 1 1/2").
Cut along each of the pencil guides, then make repeated cuts between the pencil marks leaving little space between cuts.

The more cuts you make the easier the next step will be, because the next step is to take a hammer and knock the remaining bits of wood out of each groove. They should pop out easily and leave you with a nice square hole the same dimension as the width and height of a 2x4. Since both vertical rails of the ladder were clamped together, their rung grooves should line up perfectly too.

Don't unclamp the vertical rails yet! Now is the perfect time to adjust the feet and top of the rails. Decide which end is the top and bottom (mark them if you have to), then take the rails and lean them against the wall where you want your ladder to be. They should be leaning at about a 15 degree slope The feet of the ladder should be about 1/4 of the distance away from the wall as the height of the ladder. For example, if the wall the ladder is to be installed on is 8' high, the ladder's base should be about 2' away from the wall.

Find how much of an angle you need to trim off the feet in order for the rails to have maximum contact with the floor. One way to do this is to find the angle of the ladder leaning against the wall and then cut that angle out of the inside corner of the feet. Another way is to lean the ladder against the wall in its desired place, then use a small level to trace a line from the back corner of the feet and cut along that line.
You can do the same for the top of the ladder if you want but it is not as important, plus it largely depends on how you plan on utilizing your ladder.

Now it is time to cut the rungs. A good length is 16". This will allow over 12" of space between the rails which is sufficient to have both your feet side-by-side on the same rung.
With your rungs cut, place one in each pair of grooves you cut in the rails (now you can unclamp the rails). The fit should be snug, if it is too loose try adding shims.
With the rungs in place, nail or screw through the rung into the rail.
There you have it, a quick and simple wood ladder.


Summary
  1. Clamp two boards that will be the ladder rails together.
  2. Mark the rung locations.
  3. Cut out the rung notches.
  4. Cut the rungs and nail or screw them to the ladder rails.
  5. Cut the feet to the proper angle.

Accessing that Attic Space Made Easy
With your simple to make, cheap, and sturdy wood ladder at your disposal, accessing the storage space above your garage or shop's rafters couldn't be easier or cheaper. This wood ladder is easy enough for anyone to make and simple enough to be made in a couple of hours at the most. For these reasons, this is a great project for the beginner.


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Money Saving Tips

I really like the quote

"It is not how much you make, but how much you spend."
when thinking about financial matters. I bet you can think of many cases of rich, famous people blowing all their money and ending up in debt; it happens to movie stars, singers, professional athletes, and any body else who has more money than common sense. In the spirit of this site, the emphasis will be on how to accomplish all the DIY jobs that lay before you while being financially efficient and responsible.

Below are mostly simple tips that may help you save money. The tips range from the obvious and easily executable to the somewhat odd.

Shopping
It can perhaps be called America's new favorite past time, but shopping does not have to deplete your bank account if you do it wisely. Here are some tips for saving your hard earned while still purchasing goods.

• Avoid buying new. When possible, buy used, whether a used car, clothes, or gas grill; buying used will save you lots of money. There are many ways to find good used products: resale stores, consignment stores, yard and garage sales, rummage sales, flea markets, classified ads, auctions, online classified ads, online auctions and surplus sales.

• If you like clothes shopping, you can get some really nice clothes from blemish and resale stores like TJ Maxx and Gabriel Brothers that sell name brand clothing at huge discounts. Some of the clothes are even BRAND NEW! How do they do it? If one little imperfection exists in the apparel, stores like TJ Maxx can buy the blemished clothing from the manufacturer at a steeply discounted price. They can then pass on those savings to you. Some retail stores also sell gently used clothes that are like new but much less expensive.

• Buy non-perishable goods in bulk when on sale. Stock up when you find a really good sale. On the other hand, do not buy more perishable goods than you can use. For example, if there is a great deal on milk and you buy 5 gallons of it but can barely finish 1 gallon before the milk goes bad, you are wasting money.

• Use coupons and shop for sales.

Water Conservation
Conserving water not only helps reduce utility bills, it is also a practice of responsible stewardship of one of our most precious natural resources. Here are some water conservation tips for keeping your utility bills low and helping the environment at the same time:

• Be mindful of how long your showers are or how much bathwater is in the tub.

• Consider installing some sort of rain water collection system. This can be done cheaply and over time it will pay for itself, especially if you use a lot of water for your lawn or garden or wash your own vehicles.

• This tip may not be for the "faint of heart" but consider flushing the toilet less. Older toilets can use up to 7 gallons per flush but toilets made after 1982 have "low-flow" 1.6 gallons per flush designs. Even the most efficient toilets still use about 1.2 gallons per flush. That can quickly add up! If you can barely tell the difference in the color of the water in the toilet bowl after you use it, refrain from flushing. Also, if you are like me and the last thing you do before going to bed is visit the bathroom to relieve your bladder, and the first thing you do after you get out of bed in the morning is head back to the bathroom, you can skip the nightly flush.
If you can save just 2 toilet flushes a day per person, at 1.6 gallons per flush equates to 1,186 gallons a year per person.


Electricity Conservation
You pay for every bit of electricity you use (unless you are lucky enough to have your own source of energy) so if you can use less electricity, you will pay less. Simple enough, right? Here are some energy conservation tips aimed at keeping your electrical bill low:


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