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Showing posts with label outdoor living. Show all posts
Showing posts with label outdoor living. Show all posts

Rain Barrels

Tired of high water bills in the summer from watering your lawn and garden? Here is a simple way to harness rain run-off and put this water to work for you!



Collecting Rain Water
People have been collecting and storing rain water for a very long time, so why is it we, as a society, have become complacent with our rain collecting activities? Perhaps the wide spread use of exterior garden hoses, sprinklers, and cheap, treated, municipal water have spoiled us. If you are getting tired of paying precious money on watering the garden, like I am, and want to be a better steward of our natural resources, then read on to find out one solution to the problem.

What is a Rain Barrel?
A rain barrel is quite simply a barrel designed to catch and store rain water. There is no definite form that a barrel needs to take to be a "rain barrel," in fact, it does not even have to be a barrel! The simplest form of a rain barrel would be a bucket placed under a gutter downspout, but some rain barrels can be much more complicated and expensive.
Most rain barrels will have at least one of the following characteristics:
  • Large enough capacity to hold several gallons of water
  • A spigot, faucet, valve, or other similar way of emptying water from the barrel
  • A screen or mesh and a lid to keep debris and mosquitoes out of the barrel
  • An overflow tube to divert water away from the house's foundation
There are pre-made rain barrels and rain barrel kits available commercially, but it is not difficult to make your own, so in the spirit of How-To Matthew, I will show you how I made my first (of hopefully several) rain barrels.

Constructing the Rain Catcher
One of the fun aspects of designing and making your rain barrel is that you have a tremendous amount of freedom. Design your rain barrel however it best suits your needs and wants. I personally decided to try to make this rain barrel with only using scraps and spare parts I had sitting around the garage.

Getting the Barrel
Potentially the hardest part of this whole job is finding a good barrel. Large 55 gallon plastic food barrels are possibly the most sought after container by rain barrel makers since they will not rust like steel drums, did not contain any dangerous chemicals, and can sometimes be had for really low prices. I found my 55 gallon plastic barrel on craigslist for $25. You could also try businesses or industries that use these plastic barrels to see if they will sell their empty ones to you (or even better, give them away for free). Some best bets are water treatments plants, bottling companies (soft drinks), food processing plants, and car washes.

Here are the steps I took to create my rain barrel. Feel free to copy these steps, improvise as you see fit, or come up with your own unique set of steps.

Step 1. Rinse the Barrel Out and let it dry. You do not actually have to let it completely dry, but since I will be inside of the barrel shortly, I decided to let it dry. (Fig. A)
Step 2. Drill a Hole Towards the Bottom of the Barrel. I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the faucet I was going to install. I positioned the hole a few inches up the side of the barrel. Too low would have caused a problem with the rounded edge of the barrel and too high would obviously decrease the usable amount of water I could get from this gravity-fed system. (Fig. B)
Step 3. Cut the Top of the Barrel Off. I only had to do this since the top was fused to the body of the barrel. I ended up cutting the top off about an inch under the lip, then I cut another couple of inches off the main body to allow the lid to fit down into the barrel. The lip on the lid is wider than the widest part of the main body, so the lid will not fall into the barrel. (Fig. C)
Step 4. Cut a Large Hole in the Lid for the screen. I accomplished this by first drilling several 3/4" holes and then using a reciprocating saw to finish the hole. (Fig. D)
Note: When cutting these plastic barrels with a reciprocating saw, use a metal cutting blade, it will work much better than a wood blade.

Step 5. Prepare the Faucet. You can see how I laid mine out before hand in Figure E. #1 is a spigot I salvaged from some old iron pipe stored in my garage. #2 is a female adapter that came with the spigot. #3 is the male piece of pipe I cut from the bottom of a kitchen faucet that was taken out during a renovation. #4 is a plastic washer/nut from the same kitchen faucet. As you can see in the photo, I have prepped the threaded male portions of the pipes by wrapping them in teflon tape. (Fig. E)
Step 6. Assemble the Outer Portion of the Faucet and then install the faucet into the barrel. I assembled parts #1-3 (from the step above) and then installed that into the hole I drilled in the side of the barrel. Since the hole was ever so slightly smaller than the threaded pipe, I had to screw the faucet into the barrel. This will effectively tap the plastic and will add to its water tightness. (Fig. F)
Step 7. Complete the Faucet Install by tightening the inside nut (part #4 from step 5). Before I installed this plastic nut, I applied some caulk to it, but I'm not sure the caulk did anything since it is old and never seemed to set properly. Oh well, the fixture is still water tight! (Fig. G)
Step 8. Prepare the Base where the rain barrel will sit. I made a raised platform out of cinder blocks and scrap pieces of lumber. You want it high enough off the ground to get a watering bucket under the spigot since this whole system relies on nothing more than gravity to work. (Fig. H & I)
Step 9. Route the Gutter Downspouts to Empty into the Barrel. This step is really easy if the rain barrel is directly under the downspout, however, in my case, the HVAC unit for the house is in the way. I chose the location because this is where two downspouts meet and the old downspout went straight into the ground. I started by cutting the lower portion of the downspout off (Fig. K) and then had to buy an elbow piece of gutter to help direct the water. After the elbow was installed I reinstalled a straight section from the portion I cut off previously. (Fig. K)
I then took a break from gutters to finish the barrel.
Step 10. Install the Barrel, Lid and Screen. I chose to attach the screen by laying it over top the hole in the lid and caulking it in place. I also attached a couple scrap pieces of wood to help fasten the screen. In my case though, I was using that old caulk that never seemed to fully harden and adhere, so I may have to go back and redo that portion, but for now it works.
Step 11. Install the Downspout Retaining Clip. I used some left over flexible metal strapping to create a clip to hold the end of the downspout that would empty into the barrel. (Fig. L)
Step 12. Connect the Gutter Downspout to the Barrel using a 10' length of black, flexible tubing (cost under $5 at the hardware store). One end of the tube goes through the clip I made in the previous step and the other end is slipped over the last straight portion of the gutter downspout. (Fig. M)
And it's done! Here is a view of the completed project.Sure, it is not pretty, but does it work?
It works very well in fact! A couple of days after I had installed the barrel we got a brief rain shower. It only took about twenty minutes of a steady rain to fill the barrel to where it was over flowing. We now have water that is perfect for watering plants since there are no harsh chemicals in the water. This water is also good for washing cars; I washed my truck and used about 15 gallons of this water to give it a good rinse. That is 15 gallons of water that we do not have to pay for and more importantly, it is 15 gallons that do not have to be treated, transported, and released far from its original source.

To aid the aesthetics of the rain barrel, I am thinking of planting some ivy or vines that will grow around the barrel. You could also construct a privacy fence to screen the barrel from site, or, if you are lucky enough to find a large wooden barrel, no decorations may be needed.

In the finished photo, you can see that I have attached a short length of hose to the spigot. You could also hook up a soaker hose to your rain barrel to give a garden a constant and steady source of water. Like I mentioned earlier, you are king (or queen) when it comes time to designing your rain water collection system!

Economical
My total cost break down:

Plastic 55 gallon barrel: $25 (found on www.craigslist.org)
Gutter Elbow: ~$2 (Lowes)
10' Flexible Black Irrigation Pipe: ~$5 (Lowes)
Everything else: Free

Total: $32



Relevant Sites
Here are some external links to sites with information relevant to this article.

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Extension Cord Reel

Here is a quick tip if you hate dealing with a tangled extension cord any time you try to do yard work with an electric tool: make yourself a cord reel.




We had an old garden hose reel which was being unused so I fed the female end of a 100' long extension cord through the reel's axle and wound the rest of the cord up. When the time comes to use our electric weed eater, it is simply a matter of unwinding the amount of cord we need. And the best part? When the job is finished all you have to do is reel the extension cord back in. That's it! No more extension cord tangle.


Relevant Sites
Here are some external links to sites with information relevant to this article.

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Basic Lawn Mower Tune Up

With Old Man Winter yielding to spring, the season of yard work is upon us. One of the universal lawn care jobs is mowing the grass. It would be wise to do a simple tune up before you bring your lawn mower out of the garage or shed were it was blissfully hibernating.


Since there are several different lawn mower engine manufacturers, and each manufacturer has multiple engine models, you may have to slightly modify the tools and parts needed from the ones used in this tutorial. However, all 4 cycle lawn mower engines are very similar, so the steps of the walk through should still be of value.

Basic Lawn Mower Tune Up
There are three basic lawn mower tune up tasks:
  1. Changing the oil
  2. Replacing the air filter
  3. Installing a new spark plug
A fourth maintenance item that is infrequently needed may be sharpening or replacing the blade. I will only be covering the three common tasks outlined above.

Tools and Materials Needed
  • 3/8" square drive or appropriate wrench/socket to remove oil drain plug (if equipped)
  • Catch pan for used oil
  • Small funnel
  • Appropriately sized wrench, large pliers or channel locks to remove old spark plug
  • Anti-Seize thread compound
  • Dialectic grease
  • Screwdriver and/or wrench to remove air filter
  • New air filter (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
  • New Spark plug (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
  • New engine oil (consult your lawn mower manual for type and amount of oil)

Walkthrough
Step 1
Pull the spark plug wire boot off of the spark plug. The spark plug should be mounted in the front of the engine. This will insure that by no means the engine can accidentally start and turn the blade while you are working underneath the lawn mower.

Step 2
If your lawn mower is equipped with an engine oil drain plug, tip the mower on its side to access the plug. It is helpful if the gas tank is empty. If you are not sure if your lawn mower has an oil drain plug, tip it on its side and look at the bottom of the mower. You should see a ring of bolts, these attach the engine to the mower body and are not drain plugs. If there is a single plug, probably with a square hole in it that a 3/8" drive socket fits, this is most likely the drain plug.
If the lawn mower does not have an oil drain plug, remove the oil dipstick and slowly turn the lawn mower over so the oil drains into the catch pan, then skip to step 4.

Step 3
This step helps if the mower is on higher ground than the catch pan. A simple way is placing the catch pan in the street and having the mower on the curb above it and some bricks, lumber, or anything else on the other side of the catch pan.
With the catch pan in place and the mower on its side, loosen the drain plug (1). Before the plug is about to come out, slowly return the mower half way to it upright position so that you can still reach the drain plug underneath the mower, but the plug is over the catch pan (2). Remove the drain plug and lower the mower so it straddles the catch pan (3). It will probably help the oil drain faster if you remove the oil dipstick from the top of the engine.

Step 4
Let the all the old oil drain out, then replace the drain plug (if equipped) or return the mower to its upright position.

Step 5
Place a small funnel in the oil dipstick tube and slowly pour the correct amount of new oil into it. When the correct amount of oil has been used, secure the tube with the dipstick - the oil change is done!

Step 6
Use a wrench, large pliers, or channel locks to remove the old spark plug.

Step 7
Apply a little anti-seize compound (found at auto stores) to the threads of the spark plug. Then, install the spark plug.
Step 8
Apply a bit of dialectic grease (found at auto stores) to the inside of the spark plug boot. Push the boot over the end of the spark plug until it seats itself - the spark plug change is done!
Step 9
Remove the air filter housing by removing a screw, bolt, or any fastener that holds it.

Step 10
Remove the old air filter and, if necessary, clean the inside of the air filter housing.

Step 11
Install the new air filter into the housing, and then install the housing to the engine - the air filter change is done!

NOTE: If your air filter is the foam only type (as shown in these photos), you must spread motor oil onto it. After the oil soaks in, wring it out until no more motor oil will come out.


Always remember to properly dispose of used engine oil. Most auto parts stores will recycle the oil free of charge as well as some recycling centers.

With that simple tune up, your lawn mower should be ready for another season of cutting the grass!

Procedure Summary
  1. Drain the old engine oil into a catch pan
  2. Pour new oil into the oil dip stick tube
  3. Remove the old spark plug
  4. Apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug and install it
  5. Apply dialectic grease to the inside of the spark plug boot and install it
  6. Remove the air filter housing and the old air filter
  7. Clean the housing and install a new air filter
  8. Reinstall the air filter housing onto the engine
Caring For Lawn Care Equipment
It would be wise to maintain your lawn mower and other lawn care equipment by giving them tune ups at their respective service intervals. Usually, that means once a year in the Spring, before the major yard work season begins.


Relevant Sites
Here are some external links to sites with information relevant to this article.

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Outdoors

The exterior of our homes are just as important as the interior. Whether you have a green thumb, eye for design, taste for BBQ, or just like being outdoors, you will likely find yourself involved in outdoor projects.


There are two sub categories, gardening and landscaping, as well as multiple miscellaneous outdoor related articles indexed here. Gardening posts will generally revolve around the growing of edible fruits and vegetables while landscaping posts cover the aesthetic and function exterior organic design of your yard. You can also find outdoor plans and tips linked directly from this main category post.

Gardening

Landscaping


Basic Lawn Mower Tune Up

Extension Cord Reel

Making a Rain Barrel



Relevant Sites
There is a lot of information about all aspects of outdoors on the internet. Here are some external links that may interest you:
Madison County, Ky and Surrounding Area Outdoor Adventures


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