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Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts

Replacing Spark Plugs

To keep your car's engine running efficiently, the spark plugs and, if necessary, spark plug wires, should be changed at their maintenance interval. Old and worn out spark plugs lead to weak combustion which robs your car of power and fuel efficiency. Depending on what vehicle you drive, doing a spark plug job can be anywhere from easy to difficult.

Always follow the factory recommended maintenance interval found in your owner's manual when servicing your vehicle.

Instructions and photos courtesy of Andrew and Peter.

The Patient
The car featured in this spark plug how-to article is a 1999 Nissan Altima, the same one as can be seen here. This car has four spark plugs located on the top of the engine, making this one of the easiest spark plug jobs you will ever find!

Before you begin you will need to gather the tools and parts necessary to change the spark plugs. In this case we will need:
  • Four spark plugs for this vehicle (OEM/NGK recommended)
  • Dialectic Grease
  • Anti-Seize Compound
  • Spark Plug socket (a spark plug socket has special padding to protect the porcelain section of the spark plug)
  • Ratchet with long (at least 6") extension
  • Spark Plug gap tool (wire loop type recommended for platinum plugs)

1. Clean the Area around the spark plugs so that when the plugs are removed no dirt or debris will get into the engine.
2. Pull the Spark Plug Wire Boot straight up and off the first spark plug. You may have to twist it back and forth while pulling up to free the boot from the end of the spark plug. Always make sure that you pull on the boot and NOT the wire! (Fig. A)
3. Insert the Spark Plug Socket and remove the spark plug. (Fig. B)
4. Clean the Spark Plug Wire Boot with a clean rag. (Fig. C)5. Gap the New Spark Plug to the specified gap (0.042").
Note on gapping spark plugs: If you have "Double Platinum" type spark plugs you need to be very careful when gapping them. You can very easily break the platinum tip off the ground electrode!

6. Apply Anti-Seize Compound to the spark plug threads. This will keep the spark plugs from getting stuck in the engine. (Fig. D)
7. Install the New Spark Plug. Start by fully seating the spark plug into the spark plug socket, this way the socket will hold the spark plug and prevent it from falling and bending the ground electrode. Once it starts to thread properly, tighten it to its proper torque rating (between 14 and 22 ft. lbs.). If you do not have access to a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug to where you have to start putting a little bit of force into the wrench, then another quarter to half turn. It should not be over tightened and 14-22 ft. lbs does not require much effort when using a ratchet. (Fig. E)
8. Apply Dialectic Grease to the spark plug wire boot. (Fig. F)9. Install the Wire Boot by pressing it firmly down onto the spark plug.
10. Continue Until All the Spark Plugs Have Been Changed. Work on one plug at a time to avoid mixing up the spark plug wires.

Summary
  1. Remove spark plug wire boot from spark plug.
  2. Remove old spark plug.
  3. Gap new spark plug.
  4. Apply anti-seize to spark plug threads.
  5. Install new spark plug.
  6. Apply dialectic grease to spark plug wire boot.
  7. Install spark plug wire boot.

Conclusion
The reason replacing spark plugs on this car is so easy is due to their easy accessibility. On other vehicles, especially 'V' type engines (i.e. V6, V8) the spark plugs can be difficult to reach. If you have a V6 front wheel drive car you will be able to reach 3 of the 6 plugs without a problem, but the other 3 will be hard.
Changing spark plugs is one of those iconic jobs that comes to mind when a "tune-up" is mentioned. In this case it was a quick, easy, and inexpensive job and was worth doing.


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Basic Lawn Mower Tune Up

With Old Man Winter yielding to spring, the season of yard work is upon us. One of the universal lawn care jobs is mowing the grass. It would be wise to do a simple tune up before you bring your lawn mower out of the garage or shed were it was blissfully hibernating.

Since there are several different lawn mower engine manufacturers, and each manufacturer has multiple engine models, you may have to slightly modify the tools and parts needed from the ones used in this tutorial. However, all 4 cycle lawn mower engines are very similar, so the steps of the walk through should still be of value.

Basic Lawn Mower Tune Up
There are three basic lawn mower tune up tasks:
  1. Changing the oil
  2. Replacing the air filter
  3. Installing a new spark plug
A fourth maintenance item that is infrequently needed may be sharpening or replacing the blade. I will only be covering the three common tasks outlined above.

Tools and Materials Needed
  • 3/8" square drive or appropriate wrench/socket to remove oil drain plug (if equipped)
  • Catch pan for used oil
  • Small funnel
  • Appropriately sized wrench, large pliers or channel locks to remove old spark plug
  • Anti-Seize thread compound
  • Dialectic grease
  • Screwdriver and/or wrench to remove air filter
  • New air filter (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
  • New Spark plug (consult your lawn mower manual for part number)
  • New engine oil (consult your lawn mower manual for type and amount of oil)

Walkthrough
Step 1
Pull the spark plug wire boot off of the spark plug. The spark plug should be mounted in the front of the engine. This will insure that by no means the engine can accidentally start and turn the blade while you are working underneath the lawn mower.

Step 2
If your lawn mower is equipped with an engine oil drain plug, tip the mower on its side to access the plug. It is helpful if the gas tank is empty. If you are not sure if your lawn mower has an oil drain plug, tip it on its side and look at the bottom of the mower. You should see a ring of bolts, these attach the engine to the mower body and are not drain plugs. If there is a single plug, probably with a square hole in it that a 3/8" drive socket fits, this is most likely the drain plug.
If the lawn mower does not have an oil drain plug, remove the oil dipstick and slowly turn the lawn mower over so the oil drains into the catch pan, then skip to step 4.

Step 3
This step helps if the mower is on higher ground than the catch pan. A simple way is placing the catch pan in the street and having the mower on the curb above it and some bricks, lumber, or anything else on the other side of the catch pan.
With the catch pan in place and the mower on its side, loosen the drain plug (1). Before the plug is about to come out, slowly return the mower half way to it upright position so that you can still reach the drain plug underneath the mower, but the plug is over the catch pan (2). Remove the drain plug and lower the mower so it straddles the catch pan (3). It will probably help the oil drain faster if you remove the oil dipstick from the top of the engine.

Step 4
Let the all the old oil drain out, then replace the drain plug (if equipped) or return the mower to its upright position.

Step 5
Place a small funnel in the oil dipstick tube and slowly pour the correct amount of new oil into it. When the correct amount of oil has been used, secure the tube with the dipstick - the oil change is done!

Step 6
Use a wrench, large pliers, or channel locks to remove the old spark plug.

Step 7
Apply a little anti-seize compound (found at auto stores) to the threads of the spark plug. Then, install the spark plug.
Step 8
Apply a bit of dialectic grease (found at auto stores) to the inside of the spark plug boot. Push the boot over the end of the spark plug until it seats itself - the spark plug change is done!
Step 9
Remove the air filter housing by removing a screw, bolt, or any fastener that holds it.

Step 10
Remove the old air filter and, if necessary, clean the inside of the air filter housing.

Step 11
Install the new air filter into the housing, and then install the housing to the engine - the air filter change is done!

NOTE: If your air filter is the foam only type (as shown in these photos), you must spread motor oil onto it. After the oil soaks in, wring it out until no more motor oil will come out.


Always remember to properly dispose of used engine oil. Most auto parts stores will recycle the oil free of charge as well as some recycling centers.

With that simple tune up, your lawn mower should be ready for another season of cutting the grass!

Procedure Summary
  1. Drain the old engine oil into a catch pan
  2. Pour new oil into the oil dip stick tube
  3. Remove the old spark plug
  4. Apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug and install it
  5. Apply dialectic grease to the inside of the spark plug boot and install it
  6. Remove the air filter housing and the old air filter
  7. Clean the housing and install a new air filter
  8. Reinstall the air filter housing onto the engine
Caring For Lawn Care Equipment
It would be wise to maintain your lawn mower and other lawn care equipment by giving them tune ups at their respective service intervals. Usually, that means once a year in the Spring, before the major yard work season begins.

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Drum Brake Maintenance

The good thing about drum brakes is that they require little and seldom maintenance. Commonly, the brake shoes need to be replaced every 60,000 - 100,000 miles. I will show how to change the shoes and perform some other maintenance on drum brakes in this article.

These instructions, though intended for a general audience, are specific to a Ford Ranger with 10" drums. The drum brakes on your vehicle may be slightly different but should still be similar enough for this article to help. If you are not comfortable working on critical components, like the braking systems, you should probably let a qualified professional mechanic do the work for you.

If you are not familiar with drum brakes or would like to learn more about them I have a short article summarizing the history of drum brakes and a real brief description of how they work here.

Parts and Materials
1 Set of Brake Shoes
1 Drum Brake Hardware Kit
Brake Grease
Brake Spring Compressor Tool Pictured at Right
Brake Spring Plier Tool Pictured at Right
Left & Right Brake Adjuster Hardware Kits
Wheel Cylinders
Brake Drums
Brake Cleaner


TOOLS REQUIRED
Jack
Jack Stands
Appropriate Wrenches to remove wheels
Needle Nose Pliers
Brake Spring Compressor Tool
Brake Spring Pliers Tool
Vise Grips
2 Flat Head Screw Drivers
Catch pan
7/16 Brake Line Wrench (if replacing Wheel Cylinder)
1/2” Wrench/Socket (if replacing Wheel Cylinder)

Step-By-Step Instructions
1. Release the Parking Brake, loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, chock the front wheels, jack the rear axle up and place it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels.

2. Remove the Drums. If they do not slide off you will have to retract the shoes. On the back side of the brake backing plate you will see a rectangular rubber plug near the bottom. Remove the plug and shine a light through the hole. You will see a wheel with teeth. Insert a flat head screw driver and rotate that wheel UP to retract the shoes.
This photo shows, from the inside, what you will be doing to retract the shoes. Circled in red is the rubber plug that needs to be removed. The green arrow shows the adjusting wheel. If the adjusting wheel does not turn, you may need to insert a second screw driver and depress the adjuster (the pivoting metal piece partially circled in red).

3. With the drums removed, you should see this:
Hopefully you will not see this:
Put both drums aside. You will need to work on one side at a time and use the other side as reference.

4. Place the Catch Pan Under the Brake Assembly and liberally spray the brakes with brake cleaner. Let air dry.

5. Remove the Shoe Retracting Springs (A), the Adjusting Cable eye (B) and the Anchor Pin Plate (C). If you bought the hardware kit, the springs can be disposed but keep the adjusting cable and anchor plate.
Remove the Parking Brake Strut which is the metal bar just below the Wheel Cylinder with a spring on one end. The Wheel Cylinder in the above photo is the large horizontal cylinder in the middle of the photo, directly below the springs and above the wheel lug nut stud.

6. Now the Shoe Retaining Springs and Pins need to be removed. There is one per shoe. These can be discarded if you purchased the hardware kit.

7. Remove the Adjusting Screw (A), the Adjusting Cable (if it was not completely removed in step 5) (B), the Lower Spring (C), and the Adjusting Pawl and Spring (D). The Lower Spring can be discarded if you purchased the hardware kit.
The Primary Shoe should be completely free - remove it. The Secondary Shoe will still be attached to the Parking Brake Cable via the Actuating Lever. Separate them.

8. Everything except the Wheel Cylinder should now be removed from the brake backing plate. Now is a good time to spray down the brake with brake cleaner one more time. Let it air dry, then clean it thoroughly with a rag. Spray it again if necessary.
This is also a good time to take all the hardware and parts that will be reused and clean them thoroughly. I would suggest putting all the parts to be discarded off to the side but do not discard them yet - just in case you need to reuse something.

This is a good time to replace the Wheel Cylinder if you need to. If not, skip ahead to step 9.
WC1. If your brake looks like this:
You definitely need to replace the Wheel Cylinder (referred to as WC from here on out). If you are not sure if the WC needs to be replaced, carefully pull back on the rubber seals. If brake fluid escapes, you should replace or overhaul the WC.

WC2. The WC is held on by two bolts and the brake line that go through the brake backing plate. Use a 7/16” brake wrench to loosen the brake line. Use a 1/2” wrench or ratchet to loosen the two bolts. If they are on too tight, spray the area with penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Now would be a good time to start cleaning the parts while the oil soaks in.

WC3. Remove the brake line fitting - it does not need to be pulled back from the WC. Remove the two bolts.

WC4. Pull the old WC out and clean the mating surface before installing the new WC. Place the new WC in the slot, install the two bolts, and then install the brake line. These need to be tightened down pretty good. Now is also a good time to loosen the bleed valve to make bleeding the brake easier.

It should now look like this:

9. At your work bench, remove the retaining clip (C) that holds the Secondary Brake Shoe (A) and the Parking Brake Actuating Lever (B) together. I found it very difficult to remove without destroying it. You should have a new one in your hardware kit, but my kit came with only one new retaining clip but an extra shoe retaining clip.

The old Brake Shoe can be discarded but we will be reusing the Actuating Lever.

10. Install the Actuating Lever and retaining clip on the new brake shoe. Then install the Parking Brake Cable to the Actuating Lever making sure it is installed the correct way (use the other brake as reference). Let the brake shoe and lever hang down for now.

11. Apply Brake Grease to the shoe backing plates. Make sure you get all of them.
Lubricate the threads of the threads of the Adjusting Screw with brake grease.


Refer to this Photo for the installation steps:
12. Position the Shoes, one at a time, on the backing plate. Insert the Shoe Retaining Pin from the back of the backing plate all the way through the shoe. Place a Retaining Spring over the pin, then use the Brake Spring Compressor Tool to install the Retaining Spring Cap (see the photo from step 6). This step can be very difficult by yourself because the brake shoe may not want to stay put while you try to install the retaining clip. Although not strictly necessary, I had a MUCH easier time performing this step with the brake spring tool. (PHOTO - A)

13. Install the Parking Brake Strut with one end in the slot in the primary shoe and the other end in the Actuating Lever - not the Secondary Shoe. Use the other brake for reference.
Make sure the Wheel Cylinder pushrods are in the proper slots in the brake shoes. (PHOTO - B)

14. Install the Adjusting Screw into the bottom of the Shoes in its appropriate slots. The long end of the screw should be facing the front of the vehicle (PHOTO - C). Install the Adjusting Pawl and spring (PHOTO - D) and then the lower Spring (PHOTO - E).

15. Now for the top of the brake. Install the Anchor Pin Plate (PHOTO - G) and the Cable Guide (PHOTO - F). The cable guide should fit flush against the shoe. One of mine did but the other one took a little filing to get it to seat properly.
Install the eye of the Adjusting Cable (PHOTO - H).

16. Install the Shoe Retracting Springs (PHOTOS - I & J). This is where the Spring Pliers really come in handy. Slip the hooked jaw of the plier over the spring hook and place the end of the other jaw in a hole on the top of the opposite brake shoe. Then squeeze the plier handles together and the spring should easily slip over the stud. This method is so much easier than trying to strong arm the springs into place using vice grips.

17. Finally, route the Adjusting Cable around the cable guide and connect the hook at the end to the Adjusting Pawl. The hook should attach from behind the Pawl, not over top of it. You can lift the pawl up to make installation easy.

18. Make sure everything is seated correctly including the Wheel Cylinder pushrods, Parking Brake Strut, and Adjusting Screw.

19. If you have new drums, install them. If you are reusing your old drums, either have them resurfaced or at least scrub any hard spots with fine emory cloth.

20. From behind the brake, use your screw driver to push DOWN on the adjusting screw until the shoes come into contact with the drum, then back the screw off. If you installed a new Wheel Cylinder, now is a good time to bleed the brake. Remember to top off the brake fluid. The brakes should self adjust when you apply the brakes while going in reverse.

21. Now repeat for the other side!

Summary
A "quick" version is below:
  1. Remove the drums from both wheels.
  2. Remove the old brake hardware.
  3. Remove the brake shoes.
  4. Install the parking brake actuator on the new shoe.
  5. Lubricate the shoe backing plates.
  6. Install the new shoes and shoe retaining clips.
  7. Install the parking brake strut.
  8. Install the adjusting screw.
  9. Install the anchor pin plate, cable guide, and cable eye loop.
  10. Install the shoe retracting springs.
  11. Connect the adjusting cable to the parking pawl.
  12. Install new drums or resurfaced old drums.
  13. Manually adjust the shoes until they touch the drum, then back them off a bit.

Maintenance That is Often Avoided
Working on drum brakes often seems too complicated to the novice DIY mechanic. They may hear horror stories of the complexity of the brakes and how somebody could not reinstall a spring. Honestly, drum brakes are not too hard. The key is to work on one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference. If you hesitate at the notion of working on your own drum brakes but don't even flinch at the thought of working on disc brakes, you have nothing to worry about. Just image drum brakes as jigsaw puzzles with only a few parts!

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Replace an Accessory Drive Belt

Serpentine and Accessory belts are considered maintenance items because, with time and age, they wear out and need to be replaced. Is replacing a belt an easy task or are you better off letting a professional do it?

These instructions were made while replacing an air conditioning condenser belt on a 1999 Nissan Altima. Vehicles with multiple belts will probably be similar.

How Many Belts?
I recently had the pleasure of helping my brother replace the air conditioning belt on his 1999 Nissan Altima. Most vehicles sold today either have one serpentine belt that weaves its way around all the pulleys, or two separate belts. In the case of the Altima, the main belt drives the power steering, alternator, and water pump. A secondary belt drives the air conditioning compressor.

As a side note, reading the belt diagram or following the route of the belt is an easy way to identify these automotive components.

This diagram is general representation of a two belt system. The red line represents the main belt and the blue line represents the secondary belt.

Luckily for us, the AC belt was the outer-most belt. This meant we did not have to take the main belt off in order to change the secondary belt.

Whenever changing a belt, you will always have to relieve the belt tension. Some systems use a spring loaded automatically adjusting self tensioner that must be rotated to relieve the tension. On the Altima, the belt tension is manually adjusted by a bolt. The belt tensioner pulley is attached to a pin that can slide up or down in a bracket. Here are the steps taken to replace the belt:
1. Remove the Splash Shield from behind the passenger's side front wheel. There will be a few screws or bolts holding the plastic splash shield in place. Once the shield is removed you will have clear access to the belt.
2. Remove the Bolt and washer from the belt tensioner pulley (blue arrow)
3. Remove the Adjusting Bolt (red arrow)
4. Note How the Pulley, Pin, Bracket, and Adjusting Bolt go together.
5. Remove the Pulley and inspect it. Lubricate or replace if needed.
6. Remove the Old Belt while taking note of how it is routed.
7. Reinstall the the Pulley Assembly but do not tighten the bolts yet. The pulley should freely slide up and down in the bracket.
8. Install the New Belt. Move the pulley to its highest point in order to get the belt on. It may still be a tight fit.
9. Make Sure the Belt is Properly Seated in each of the pulleys - the crankcase (engine), AC compressor, and tensioner.
10. Tighten the Pulley Bolt (blue arrow), then tighten the adjusting bolt to 26 ft. lbs.
11. Check to Belt's Tightness. To check, measure the amount the belt will deflect when you press against it at a point half way between two pulleys. The amount of deflection should be about 1/4" If it deflects more than that, tighten the adjusting bolt. If it does not deflect, then it is too tight and you need to loosen the adjusting bolt.
It is also a good idea to clean the the pulleys when you have the belt off. You should also check each pulley to make sure it spins freely (with the exception of the crankcase pulley). If any of the pulleys grind or resist spinning, try cleaning them or replacing them.

The Quick Version
  1. Remove the passenger's side front wheel splash shield.
  2. Remove the main bolt and adjusting bolt from the belt tensioner.
  3. Remove the belt tensioner pulley.
  4. Remove the old belt.
  5. Reinstall the tensioner pulley assembly.
  6. Install the new belt.
  7. Tighten the tensioner adjusting bolt to 26 ft. lbs. or until the belt deflects about 1/4"

Not Too Hard
No special tools were required to replace the belt and we did not even have to raise the front of the vehicle up. The only time we had any kind of trouble was getting the tensioner adjusting bolt to move. We found years of sediment compacted in the threads of the bolt that made it difficult to remove.


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Cooling System Service: Flushing Kit

The Flushing Kit method of servicing your car's cooling system is another easy and straightforward procedure that comes with handy instructions.

These instructions should be used as only advice. Always follow your car's manufacturer's instructions when servicing it on your own.

Coolant Flush Kit
1. Purchase Your Flush Kit from the store of your choice. A common kit is the Prestone Flush N Fill Kit.
2. Follow the Directions provided with the flushing kit. The following steps are guidelines designed to help clear any ambiguous instructions provided with the kit.
3. Remove the Radiator Cap to release any pressure in the system (make sure the engine is cool before flushing the cooling system!). (Fig. A, see below)
4. Install the 'T' Adapter in the heater core inlet hose. There are two hoses that pass through the firewall (the wall that separates the engine bay from the cabin) on the passenger's side of the vehicle. Follow the hoses to determine which is the inlet and which is the outlet. The inlet hose will come from the engine or thermostat; the outlet will come from the water pump. Find the straightest section of the inlet hose and cut it. Install the 'T' adapter from the kit.
5. Install the Splash Tube in the Radiator where the cap usually goes. Aim the splash tube away from the engine so that the coolant will drain into a suitable container (you can try attaching a hose to help prevent spills).
6. Locate the Radiator Drain, it will probably be on the side of the radiator opposite from the radiator cap, located towards the very bottom of the radiator. (If your car does not have a radiator drain, skip to step 6). (Fig. B, 1=Draincock, 2=Drain)
7. Attach a Hose to the radiator drain, if needed, and route it to a large container capable of holding at least 5 gallons. (Fig. C)
8. Loosen the Draincock to open the drain. Let the old coolant drain out of the radiator (this may take 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the radiator).
9. If Your Vehicle Does Not Have A Radiator Drain or Cap locate the Lower Radiator Hose. This will be a large hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator and then remove the lower radiator hose, being careful to not get antifreeze on yourself. Remove the hose by disengaging the hose clamp with a tool appropriate to the type of clamp used (pliers or screw driver). Route the hose so that it will empty into a large container.
10. Attach the Garden Hose to the 'T' Adapter and turn the water on.
11. Turn Your Heat on High (Fig. D)
12. Start the Engine after water starts coming out of the splash tube.
13. Run the Engine Until it Warms Up, as indicated by the temperature gauge or the radiator fan turning on. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes AFTER it gets to normal operating temperature AND the fluid coming out of the splash tube is clear. (Fig. E)
14. Turn Off the Engine and let it cool down. Then drain the radiator again.
15. Remove the Garden Hose and put the cap on the 'T' Adapter.
16. Fill the Radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water. Pour the blend in slowly and use a funnel to help avoid spills. Once the radiator is full, leave the radiator cap off and leave the funnel in place.
17. Burp the Radiator by running the engine again for a few minutes with the radiator cap off. Any air bubbles will eventually find their way to the radiator fill neck and escape with the cap off. During the air's escape, antifreeze can bubble and burp out of the radiator, so keep some rags around and leave the funnel in the radiator to help keep things tidy.
19. Top Off the radiator with your blended 50/50 antifreeze/water.

Summary
To summarize:
  1. Install the 'T' Adapter in the heater core inlet hose.
  2. Install the splash tube into the radiator cap opening and drain the radiator.
  3. Attach a garden hose to the 'T' Adapter and run water through the system.
  4. Run the engine until it gets to normal operating temperature, and then for 10 minutes longer.
  5. Shut off the engine and drain the radiator.
  6. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.
  7. "Burp" the system by running the engine with the radiator cap off.
  8. Top off the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.

End Notes
While performing this maintenance, check all the cooling system components for wear and tear. Replace any hoses that show signs of imminent failure, such as cracks, bulges, swelling, or punctures.

After completing this maintenance, your vehicle's cooling system should be ready to perform at its peak for at least a couple of more years!

*ALWAYS make sure you dispose of used antifreeze in accordance to your local laws!

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Cooling System Service: Flush and Fill

The Flush and Fill method of servicing your car's cooling system will thoroughly clean the major components of the cooling system.

These instructions should be used as only advice. Always follow your car's manufacturer's instructions when servicing it on your own.

Flushing the 'Ole Pipes
1. Start with a Cool Engine. Make sure your vehicle has not been driven for several hours before starting this maintenance job. If you need more clearance to access the under side of the radiator, jack the front of your car up and support it on jack stands or use a set of ramps.
2. Remove the Radiator Cap and set it aside. (Fig. A)
3. Locate the Radiator Drain, it will probably be on the side of the radiator opposite from the radiator cap, located towards the very bottom of the radiator. (If your car does not have a radiator drain, skip to step 6). (Fig. B, 1=Draincock, 2=Drain)
4. Attach a Hose to the radiator drain, if needed, and route it to a large container capable of holding at least 5 gallons. (Fig. C)
5. Loosen the Draincock to open the drain. Let the old coolant drain out of the radiator (this may take 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the radiator). When all the old antifreeze has drained, tighten the draincock and proceed to step 8.
6. Locate the Lower Radiator Hose. This will be a large hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator.
7. Remove the Lower Radiator Hose, being careful to not get antifreeze on yourself. Remove the hose by disengaging the hose clamp with a tool appropriate to the type of clamp used (pliers or screw driver). Route the hose so that it will empty into a large container. When all the antifreeze has drained, reinstall the hose.
8. Flush the Radiator by running water through the radiator cap with a garden hose. When the water emptying from the radiator drain is clear, stop flushing and allow the radiator to fully drain.
9. Flush the Heater Core by finding the heater core inlet and outlet hoses. These two hoses will pass through the firewall (the wall that separates the engine bay from the cabin) on the passenger's side of the vehicle. (Fig. F) Follow the hoses to determine which is the inlet and which is the outlet. The inlet hose will come from the engine or thermostat; the outlet will come from the water pump. Disconnect the inlet hose and insert your garden hose into it (you can use a male hose adapter if you wish but it is not required). Disconnect the outlet hose and route it so that it will drain into the your large container. (Fig. G, 1=Inlet Hose, where to insert garden hose, 2=Outlet Hose, route to drain into container - Fig. H) Flush the heater core by running water through the inlet hose until the fluid coming out of the outlet hose is clear. Switch between a steady stream of water and pulsating the water to help dislodge any possible build-up inside the heater core.
10. Backflush the Heater Core by switching which heater hose you spray your water into and which you empty into the container. Follow the same flushing method as step 9 with alternating between a steady stream of water and pulsating the water stream by repeatedly spraying full blast and then switching the hose off. If you want to very thoroughly flush the heater core, you can then repeat step 9 one more time before proceeding to the next flushing step. Once the heater core has been flushed, reattach the inlet and outlet hoses in their correct spots.

11. Flush the Coolant Reservoir by removing the reservoir hose. The end of the coolant reservoir hose will be attached to the radiator filler neck (directly under the radiator cap). Disengage the hose from the filler neck and from any clips that may secure it to the top of the radiator and route it to drain into the container. (Fig. I & J)
12. With the Reservoir Hose in Place, open the top of the reservoir and use a garden hose to flush the reservoir tank out. If there is an excess of corrosion build-up inside the tank, you can use any common household cleaners to help thoroughly flush the tank. When the reservoir is clean, reroute the hose and reattach it to the radiator filler neck.
13. Refill the Radiator by slowly adding a mix of 50/50 antifreeze/water with the help of a funnel. When the radiator is full, leave the funnel in and the radiator filler neck and then fill the coolant reservoir tank to the "Cold Fill" mark.
14. Turn Your Heat on High (Fig. D)
15. Run the Engine Until it Warms Up, as indicated by the temperature gauge or the radiator fan turning on. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes AFTER it gets to normal operating temperature. (Fig. E)
16. Top Off the radiator with your blended 50/50 antifreeze/water.

Summary
To summarize:
  1. Remove the radiator cap and drain the radiator.
  2. Flush the radiator.
  3. Disconnect the heater core inlet and outlet hoses and flush the heater core.
  4. Flush the coolant recovery reservoir.
  5. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.
  6. Run the engine until it gets to normal operating temperature, and then for 10 minutes longer.
  7. Top off the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.

End Notes
While performing this maintenance, check all the cooling system components for wear and tear. Replace any hoses that show signs of imminent failure, such as cracks, bulges, swelling, or punctures. If your cooling system is in rough shape (i.e. there is a lot of rust and corrosion build-up) you can add a step of using a chemical cleaning agent flush after you flush the radiator, heater core, and reservoir. If you choose to do so, follow the directions on the bottle.
Also, I should point out that following the steps outlined for this method will leave some old antifreeze in the engine block. You can drain the engine block as well, but I personally do not because if you drain the engine block, you must run the engine without any coolant until the thermostat opens up and the shock of going from no coolant to a sudden influx of cold coolant could damage the engine. If you want to fully flush the system, I would recommend adding an additional flush step as outlined in the Drain and Fill method.

After completing this maintenance, your vehicle's cooling system should be ready to perform at its peak for at least a couple of more years!

*ALWAYS make sure you dispose of used antifreeze in accordance to your local laws!

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Cooling System Service: Drain and Refill

The Drain and Fill method of servicing your car's cooling system is quick, easy, and straightforward.

These instructions should be used as only advice. Always follow your car's manufacturer's instructions when servicing it on your own.

Drain, Fill, Repeat... Easy as 1-2-3
1. Start with a Cool Engine. Make sure your vehicle has not been driven for several hours before starting this maintenance job. If you need more clearance to access the under side of the radiator, jack the front of your car up and support it on jack stands or use a set of ramps.
2. Remove the Radiator Cap and set it aside. (Fig. A)
3. Locate the Radiator Drain, it will probably be on the side of the radiator opposite from the radiator cap, located towards the very bottom of the radiator. (If your car does not have a radiator drain, skip to step 6). (Fig. B, 1=Draincock, 2=Drain)
4. Attach a Hose to the radiator drain, if needed, and route it to a large container capable of holding at least 5 gallons. (Fig. C)
5. Loosen the Draincock to open the drain. Let the old coolant drain out of the radiator (this may take 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the radiator). When all the old antifreeze has drained, tighten the draincock and proceed to step 8.
6. Locate the Lower Radiator Hose. This will be a large hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator.
7. Remove the Lower Radiator Hose, being careful to not get antifreeze on yourself. Remove the hose by disengaging the hose clamp with a tool appropriate to the type of clamp used (pliers or screw driver). Route the hose so that it will empty into a large container. When all the antifreeze has drained, reinstall the hose.
8. Fill the Radiator with distilled water. Optionally, you can use tap water from a garden hose, but tap water is often hard (mineral rich) and can leave mineral deposits inside the radiator or heater core which can, in turn, block coolant passages.
Reinstall the radiator cap.
9. Turn Your Heat on High (Fig. D)
10. Run the Engine Until it Warms Up, as indicated by the temperature gauge or the radiator fan turning on. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes AFTER it gets to normal operating temperature. (Fig. E)
11. Turn Off the Engine and let it cool down. Then drain the radiator again.
12. Fill the Radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water. Pour the blend in slowly and use a funnel to help avoid spills. Once the radiator is full, leave the radiator cap off and leave the funnel in place.
13. Burp the Radiator by running the engine again for a few minutes with the radiator cap off. Any air bubbles will eventually find their way to the radiator fill neck and escape with the cap off. During the air's escape, antifreeze can bubble and burp out of the radiator, so keep some rags around and leave the funnel in the radiator to help keep things tidy.
14. Top Off the radiator with your blended 50/50 antifreeze/water.

Summary
To summarize:
  1. Remove the radiator cap and drain the radiator.
  2. Fill the radiator with distilled water.
  3. Run the engine until it gets to normal operating temperature, and then for 10 minutes longer.
  4. Shut off the engine and drain the radiator.
  5. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.
  6. "Burp" the system by running the engine with the radiator cap off.
  7. Top off the radiator with a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water.

End Notes
While performing this maintenance, check all the cooling system components for wear and tear. Replace any hoses that show signs of imminent failure, such as cracks, bulges, swelling, or punctures.

After completing this maintenance, your vehicle's cooling system should be ready to perform at its peak for at least a couple of more years!

*ALWAYS make sure you dispose of used antifreeze in accordance to your local laws!

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Flush the Cooling System

Flushing the coolant in your vehicle's cooling system is a great step in maintaining a healthy engine. A failure in the cooling system can easily result in an engine damaged beyond repair and a wallet much, much lighter. Luckily, servicing a car's cooling system is easily within the grasp of the backyard mechanic.

There are several methods for flushing a car's cooling system, each with their own strengths and weaknesses. Make sure you fully understand which steps you need to take to service your particular car.

Not Too Hot. Not Too Cold.
The engine in your car or truck runs best when it is at its optimum operating temperature. Too hot and you risk damaging or destroying your engine. Too cold and the engine performs inefficiently. Before you service your car's cooling system, it would be wise to understand how it basically works. Read this short article, then continue on with the cooling system flush procedure.

What Kind of Coolant Do I Need? Times have changed and the number of coolant colors and types to choose from have as well. Here is a concise and hopefully enlightening article on coolants.

Coolant System Flush Methods are numerous, but I am going to divide them into three main groups:
  1. Drain and Fill
  2. Flush and Fill
  3. Flushing Kit

Drain and Fill
The drain and fill procedure is perhaps the easiest and fastest method of replacing the antifreeze in your cooling system. There are only three basic steps to this method:
  1. Drain radiator
  2. Fill radiator with water and run engine for 15 minutes
  3. Drain radiator and fill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water
The drain and fill procedure works well if your vehicle's cooling system is in good shape. This procedure is quick and requires a minimum of tools to perform, however, your cooling system does not get flushed as well as in the other two methods.

Flush and Fill
The flush and fill procedure is probably the most time consuming of the three methods. Its basic steps are:
  1. Drain radiator
  2. Flush radiator
  3. Flush heater core
  4. Flush coolant recovery tank
  5. Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water
  6. Purge air from cooling system
  7. Top off cooling system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water
The main benefit of this flushing method is that the radiator, heater core and the reservoir tank are flushed. This procedure does take more time than a simple drain and refill and, unless you drain the old coolant from the engine block or combine the drain and fill procedure with this method, there will still be a little old antifreeze left in the cooling system.

Flushing Kit
Inexpensive cooling system flushing kits can be purchased an any auto parts store. These kits let you thoroughly flush the old antifreeze out of the system. The basic steps to using them are:
  1. Install flushing 'T' cap (requires cutting heater inlet hose)
  2. Backflush the system with water
  3. Add proper amount of antifreeze to attain a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water
Using the flushing kit will allow you to very thoroughly flush the entire cooling system, however it has two main drawbacks, first, the water in the system will be tap water from your garden hose and second, to install the backflush 'T' cap, you must cut the heater inlet hose, leaving one additional spot for a leak to sprout.

Choose Your Method
Having trouble deciding which cooling system service method to use? Here are a few tips:
  • Check the condition of the antifreeze in your car by removing the radiator cap and looking inside the radiator. You can also look inside the coolant recovery reservoir. If you see rust or scale deposits or if the coolant is discolored, you should choose one of the flushing methods.
  • If your car or truck is less than two or three years old or if your vehicle's cooling system was serviced regularly and on schedule, you can probably save yourself the hassle of flushing and do a drain and refill.
  • If any part or component of the cooling system needs to be replaced (including but not limited to the radiator, any of the hoses, water pump, or heater core) you should choose a flushing method.

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